Back in summer 1996, an Oasis shoot in Arena Homme+ by Peter Robathan showed that, long before Liam did the cod-mod Pretty Green thing, he had a lot of style when it came to outerwear, while Noel has always understood the power of a good coat. Rain was rooted in the north’s inclement weather and the duality of the siblings. Liam opted for Lefthand, Donna Karan and Hugo while Noel gravitated towards Polo Sport and Kenzo. 20 years on, this Ralph (“coat £165 by Polo Sport Ralph Lauren”) is still a highlight. Trips to Bicester to get this one that Christmas yielded nothing. Continue reading RAIN
Since its inception in 1976, BEAMS has been helping define entire dress codes. Only knowing them as serial collaborators until I visited Tokyo for the first time in the 2000s, I was staggered at just how vast their presence was in Harajuku. I don’t know if I was just being easily wowed in the humidity, but there seemed to be an entire street of BEAMS stores. Crucially, the entire product mix and presentation, from kidswear to homeware to menswear was absolutely incredible. Now, with the gift of English language accounts of Japan’s love of Americana, plus the recent POPEYE reprint, everything makes a bit more sense. Fortunately, those smedium larges and a famine when it came to XLs saved me a substantial amount of money that would have been spent on things that just about fitted but were never, ever washed because of a fear of shrinkage making me dress like I’ve had an overnight growth spurt (insert Kenneth Williams innuendo face image here). Rizzoli are putting out a book with the company called BEAMS beyond Tokyo in February next year with contributions by Sofia Coppola and Nigo. Reading the promotional text around it, the project sounds more about the company’s working and collaborative process than a straightforward history, but that sounds good to me.
Flicking through Neal Heard’s excellent A Lover’s Guide to Football Shirts you’ll see a lot of gems and many of them are Le Coq Sportif creations — the 1983 A.S. Monaco shirt with the Bally sponsorship being a great example. The joy of flipping through a book like that is seeing the curious eccentricities that players wore in front of the baying masses and realising that some designs I hated in the 1990s have aged well in their audacity, with contemporary, skin-tight, referential, remixed, tactically homaged pieces from high-profile designer lacking any of that same magic. Continue reading BRAND NUBIAN, COVENTRY, BOURNEMOUTH & CHESTER CITY
I wrote some Euro-centric stuff about Gazelles that Complex kindly published. You can read it RIGHT HERE. Naturally, I rambled on and some stuff had to be cut, so I stuck it here. Deleted paragraphs in a deleted scenes style. I’ve never actually liked the Gazelle much beyond that 1991-1997 era, but I can understand the appeal and its popularity is significant. This is my last shoe history thing for a while because I’m starting to bore myself. Continue reading SUEDE & ANTELOPES
I meant to up this here yesterday, but the gloom of being too slow and old with the keyboard to buy the Zoom Spiridon when it rereleased the other day dampened my spirit. Going forward, I might post more shoe-nerd bits here in this vein, though the cult of reposting and my own laziness might stop me doing that.
There’s something about the Zoom Spiridon that two solid reissues hasn’t dampened.
Released in 1997, promoted by Michael Johnson, and named after Greek runner Spyridon Louis — winner of the first modern-day Olympic marathon in 1896 — it’s a lightweight training model and a fan favourite from a golden age of design. It wasn’t the first Nike shoe to carry that name either — around 1984, there was a gold swoosh racing shoe called the Spiridon in the line that was followed by the Spiridon Gold a few years later. Continue reading SPIRIDON-DADA: A TRIBUTE TO A CULT CLASSIC
Rizzoli releases The Carhartt WIP Archives in October. As someone who grew up preoccupied with duck fabric in that shade of brown and paused Yo! MTV Raps trying to work out what the brand with the ‘C’ on the path was and who the heck made those weird half zip shirts with the monkey on the pocket, it holds a very particular place in my heart. With those vivid memories of days when I believed Carhartt and Ben Davis were just very conservative-looking hip-hop brands still etched into my psyche it was an honour to get the opportunity to contribute a little something for this book. The company’s European history is very deep indeed.
It’s a sad reality that police brutality toward black Americans has been going on for so long that protest clothing from the 1990s can be retroed and still carry a potent message. Continue reading PROTEST STREETWEAR