Category Archives: Apparel



To typify London’s the stock of Sign of the Times store as rave gear would be a gross oversimplification. Having opened up as a stall in Camden in 1986, before moving to Kensington Market, Fiona Cartledge’s business/passion project was the summary of a young life spent participating in multiple scenes. The moment it signposted was the dawn of dance music as big business, with house’s DIY boom, the early signs of riot grrrl, dressed the discerning side of British indie music when Creation popped off, while heralding the high-end meeting with club and street gear that spawned spots like Pineal Eye and Kokon To Zai and the ensuing world that allowed creative powerhouses like Kim Jones and Nicola Formichetti to help alter popular culture. Continue reading THE SPIRIT OF AN ERA



Nike has had some peculiar categories throughout the years. We tend to think of sportswear brands in terms of the obvious activities — football, tennis basketball, football, training (and, of course, posing), but there was a time when they dipped their toes into anything that looked like potential profit. Continue reading WHEN NIKE WENT TO SEA



If the popularity of bespoke bootleg legend Dapper Dan in defining the union of high-end and street style taught us anything, it’s that fakes can actually be fun in some cases. I’m not talking the replicas, the toys with lead paint or the cons — I’m talking the weird pieces that could never have been legit. It’s interesting that a lot of brands would ultimately take cues from fakes and streetwear to put out authentic gear later down the line too. Continue reading SO UNOFFICIAL, IT’S OFFICIAL



It’s good to hear that Tommy Hilfiger’s memoir is dropping at the end of this year. American Dreamer: My Life in Fashion and Business is going to be published by Ballantine on October 16th and promises to be a definitive, despite weighing in at a slim-sounding 240 pages. I’m hoping that it’s not the usual dumbed-down, reiterate-a-point business book, because I want at least 10 pages on his time spent designing Coca-Cola clothing and at least a chapter on the moment when he spotted Puba and his boys clad in XXL Hilfiger gear at JFK airport and got his brother Andy to make the introduction. Continue reading TOMMY’S AUTOBIOGRAPHY



Busy tonight (but never too busy to update this blog, albeit briefly). I think Frank Bruno and the sadly departed George Francis was one of British boxing’s great partnerships. As a kid, I was always looking at the gear that celebrities and athletes wore — around this time, if we want to create a Rocky-esque contrasting training montage in our minds, I’m sure Mike Tyson was pacing the streets of Vegas at the same unholy hours in grey NB 996s. Continue reading HYPEBEASTS IN TRAINING



There’s a debate raging right now regarding streetwear’s decline that makes for interesting reading, starting with Bobby from The Hundreds’ editorial on Hypebeast. Personally, I think that The Hundreds did such a good job in making the brand seem huge (which would become a self-fulfilling prophecy) through strong writing and photography that the legions of chummy imitators that followed simply got too damned keen and forgot a brand’s duty to act like it didn’t want our business. Continue reading RIDING THE TRANSITION