I see a lot of photo shoots that feature scowling people in sportswear standing near housing estates. It’s the formula that superseded men dressed like 1940s train drivers in parks for look books, but I’ve never seen it done better post-millennium than with french photographer Patrick Cariou’s Marseillais Du Nord shoot for the winter 2002 issue of THE FADER. I don’t know when stylist Alexandre “M.A.F” Barthelemy’s styling starts and the subjects’ own gear takes over. Cariou’s work is tremendous but the majority of coverage regarding his imagery relates to his lawsuit against Richard Prince regarding images published in his excellent book, Yes Rasta. Some of the best TN colourways, Prestos, bum bags, tracksuits, severe looking architecture, Sergio Tacchini, Lacoste, Umbro, sportswear brand-mixing and that Marseille shirt with the Khalifa Airways bird is a very southern French style (see also Ewen Spencer’s Guapamente Marseille ‘zine) and it has a certain sharpness and pride here that preempts the current zeitgeist for sportswear without apology. This could have come straight out of 2016.
On that topic, now that the unspoken rules of mixing up sportswear lines are broken (though I still can’t bring myself to blaspheme like that), it’s pretty moot, but for brand funadmentalists, I’ve always wondered what the official line is on Lacoste trackies with Nikes or whether PUMA on a football shirt means you’re duty bound to wear PUMA shoes too.